Yesterday Duncan and I walked into Beinn an Dothaidh’s NE Corrie to have a look at Menage a Trois V,6. It took a bit of effort battling strong head winds but we were rewarded with perfect conditions and the mountain pretty much to ourselves. The route felt quite stiff for tech 6 although I put this down to not getting out much over the last couple of months rather than suggesting grade creep! Loads of routes to go at in the corrie, Cirrus looked particularly fat and pretty much all the lines relying on turf around our route looked to be in superb condition….

Approaching the start

Approaching the start

Duncan attacking the first pitch direct

Duncan attacking the first pitch direct

Starting the second pitch

Starting the second pitch

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Today we decided to visit Ben Cruachan and although it is a pretty long walk up over the 1100m summit we were again rewarded with the whole crag to ourselves. After getting to grips with a dicey looking East gully which gives access to the bottom of the cliff, we got on Tainted Elixir V,6 an excellent steep but short route toward the left hand side of the buttress. Duncan ended up climbing the forst and half of the second pitch due to a oversight on our part which left me with the tight squeeze leaning slot – great fun! After a brief bite to eat we were back to climb Toxic Brew which was pretty much an icefall today and seems we had no ice screws it gave some interesting climbing above marginal gear.

Duncan mid first pitch

Duncan mid first pitch

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Bit of an inspection going on

Bit of an inspection going on

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Toxic Brew - an icefall today

Toxic Brew – an icefall today

What to do tomorrow as high winds and temperatures rise above the summits?!?

One Response to “Menage a Trois, Tainted Elixir & Toxic Brew”

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