What a day to be in the Highlands – dry rock, blue skies and great craic. Kev, Joe, Dave and I went back to Wave Buttress today, all with plans of our own and plenty of psych to see it through. Dot also joined us about midday which made two rope teams and a spare person to catch the action on camera. Joe and I kick started the day with a top rope on Edgehog (E3, 6a). I didnt find the route all that inspiring to be honest, so after just one go I was keen to move onto something else whilst Joe dialled the route a little more. Kev and Dave were keen to straighten out Kev’s project which sits between Edgehog and the corner of Teenoso. After a bit of cleaning and some dicey looking moves the sequence was discovered. Beaming smiles all round as Kev knew the route would now go as a plumb line, straight down the slab!
Dot, Joe and I ended up working a new route which Joe had started on a previous visit. Luckily this runs to the right of Teenoso which made it a very sociable day with everyone passing beta back and forth between tries. With all their experience, Kev and Dave managed to decide on potential grades for both routes which are thought to be in the mid to high E grade and Kev’s coming in at a punchy tech 6c.
With everyone feeling keen as mustard, Dave decided to try and onsight Romancing the Stone (E5 ,6a). It looked bold from the ground, confirmed by Dave finally getting some bomber gear a good 3/4 the way up the route. Smooth as silk to watch, which clearly rubbed off on Joe who went on to climb his first E3 with Edgehog – a bloody good effort as its certainly solid for the grade.
Dot and I took the final opportunity to rigg the rope over On the Beach, a suberb E5 I have been working the last couple of visits. I was quietly chuffed to feel quite confident up to the halfway break and still continued on failing fingers to manage my first clean link with some left in reserve. Dot, Kev and Joe all gave the route a shot before we packed up and called it a day.
Sunny, dry, windy, success and no midgies, what a superb day!