Kev high up on Cu Sith

Kev high up on Cu Sith E7, 6c – picture Dorota Bankowska

In the hope of avoiding the heat of the day Kev, Dot and I were back down Glen Nevis early doors. By 0645 we were pretty much set up and ready to go, Kev decided to take two quick practice sessions before the rope was pulled and the tension mounted. Calm as ever he made swift and solid progress up the slab placing three bits of gear over 25 meters, one of which was a skyhook around mid-height. I’m not sure who was more relieved but I was absolutely chuffed to see him top out without falter. Cu Sith (E7, 6c) is Kev’s most difficult route to date. It’s the stunning, direct slab that lies between Teenoso and Edgehog.

On the Beach - my first E5

On the Beach – my first E5

If I couldn’t get motivated watching a guy with most of his left hand missing climb a new E7 then nothing would do the trick! All to quickly I was standing underneath On the Beach (E5, 6a), a route I had practised in the hope it would be my first E5 lead. After an initial slip on top rope I had to battle to ‘want’ to get on the lead but with a near perfect day in perfect company it was the ideal opportunity. Topping out on my first E5 was awesome, its been a while since I have climbed at my limit which is just impossible to describe on a blog. All I can say is the beer rarely tastes sweeter………

The greatest of thanks to Kev and Dot for all the motivation and great pictures!

Reaching the last of the gear On the Beach E5,6a

Reaching the last of the gear On the Beach E5,6a – picture Dorota Bankowska

Why not!

9am dram – why not! – picture Dorota Bankowska

3 Responses to “‘Firsts’ all round!”

  1. Progress | Vertical Fever

    […] a bit of a resurgence lately. There are lots of routes with plenty of chalk on them including On The Beach which I managed to climb at the start of the season just after Kev made the first ascent of Cu […]

    Reply

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