0850,. Kev:……‘Looks like your Wave project has been climbed!’…….. Ironically I have my coffee mug in my hand…..
I’ve had along standing project at Wave Buttress in Glen Nevis. Joe had initially tried it but decided he wasn’t overly keen. At the time it was super dirty but I loved the style of climbing so decided to put the effort in and get it cleaned. Looking back though my blog I must have had 30 days at the crag either cleaning or working the moves. One day inparticular Kev and I cleaned so much mud from the top of the route we had to dig the bottom of the crag out and re-lay stones to stop it becoming muddy. The top holds weren’t even visible but I was determined to reveal this routes potential and stuck with it.
By the end of an amazing 2014 I had all but one move to link on the upper head wall. It was hard for me, possibly tech 6c and overall possibly E7. After seeing Dave Macleod, the only man (at the time) able to make the upper move I knew I would have to get stronger fingers. Last years summer weather was dreadful, coupled with a long lay off due to injury I only managed two days on the project, certainly not enough to get on the lead. Enter the Moon finger board and a re-creation of the stopper hold on my tiny home wall, I was optimistic about finally getting the project done.
What can I say, its a brilliant piece of rock at a very popular venue, there was always a chance that someone would come along and climb it. Of-course I am disappointed but only with myself for not being stronger and spending so much time on the route in possibly the best summer the Highlands had seen for years. Kev reminded me of other routes I climbed recently, and kindly consoled me that the Wave project got me strong enough to do them. Well done to Iain Small who made the first ascent and also repeated Kev’s Cu Sith too, a top effort by a very strong climber.