The line of Tupilaq

Last Tuesday I was out climbing with Kev and Ken. I’ve been scouting several new lines in Glen Nevis but high priority was a revisit to Bistro Buttress which sports excellent clean rock and a handful of established routes from HVS to E3. Over two days I had six attempts on top rope, one of these was purely to get a direct start which ended up being very bouldery and serious should you fall off it. The line then climbs a very thin crack up the wall straight to the huge pine at the top. I maybe biased but its now the best route at the crag, easily two stars and well worth a visit. Grading it took a while but I think I have settled at E5, whatever the grade, its another top day for the season. Thanks to Kev for the pics and Ken for the belay!

Tupilaq (E5,6a) ** 17m – Fierce moves through the roof to get established on the wall, then climb the thin crack with difficulty straight to the prominent pine.